INTEGRATED DNA-BASED BIO-PIGMENTS INTO INDIAN TRADITIONAL TEXTILES
Sanghamitra Mallik , Shantanu Chakraborty, MD
Keywords: Bio-pigments, DNA-based pigments, microbial pigments, Indian traditional textile, Mordants.
Abstract
The textile industry’s reliance on synthetic dyes has led to significant environmental and social issues, such as water pollution, disruption of aquatic ecosystems, and long-term health risks for workers and consumers. Although natural dyes have been reconsidered as an alternative, they encounter challenges related to scalability, colour inconsistency, and the use of large amounts of water and mordants. This underscores a clear research gap: the need for a dyeing solution that is sustainable, reliable, and suitable for both modern and traditional textile practices. This paper examines DNA-based microbial pigments as a disruptive solution, with particular focus on their use in Indian traditional textiles. Microorganisms such as Serratia marcescens (red), Streptomyces Coelicolor (blue), and Chromobacterium violaceum (violet) are being researched worldwide for their ability to biosynthesise stable, biodegradable pigments. These bio-pigments demonstrate promising wash and light fastness, reduced chemical usage, and significant savings in water and energy compared to conventional dyeing methods. Importantly, unlike synthetic dyes, these are biodegradable and environmentally safe. The objective of this conceptual study is to review existing literature and industry case studies to assess the potential of microbial pigments for Indian crafts such as Kalamkari, Ajrakh and Bandhani. The paper also examines their cultural adaptability, long-term cost-effectiveness, and role in preserving heritage textiles while supporting sustainability goals. By bridging advanced biotechnology with India’s rich textile heritage, this research highlights a pathway toward an eco-conscious future for the fashion industry. It argues that microbial pigments are not only a technological innovation but also a cultural opportunity—one that can protect both tradition and the environment.